A brook so narrow you barely got your ankles wet separated a village for more than four decades. Because of a chance of topography, the fifty residents of Mödlareuth, a hamlet surrounded by coniferous woods, fields and stunning scenery, found themselves at the core of the cold war. They had the unfortunate circumstance to cross Bavaria, in Western Germany, and Thuringia in the East, a boundary that was established first by a fence and then by a wall. American soldiers dubbed it Little Berlin.
A few months after their own division was opened, and before their nation had unified again in 1990, a group of villagers began commemorating their past. The effort is close to come to fruition: on 9 November, the 36th anniversary of the fall of the Berlin Wall, the German-German Museum Mödlareuth will begin operations. It was officially opened by the federal president, Frank-Walter Steinmeier, in early October, but the show wasn’t quite finished. Telling the locals who experienced the past era, Steinmeier stated: “You were witnesses of an brutal separation, which pulled families asunder and turned local residents into foreigners.”
“You were bystanders of an inhuman division, which ripped households asunder and turned neighbors into foreigners.”
Starting at its founding in 1810, the village straddled the Bavarian Kingdom and the Reuss Principality, a noble lineage most famous for giving all its male members the designation Heinrich and counting them consecutively by date of birth. As Steinmeier told the gathering, the peculiarity never stood in the path of the inhabitants gathering in the same inn, visiting the very same place of worship and sending their young ones to the identical school.
Next arrived the World War II. As soon as they arrived, the Soviet forces installed wood stakes by the stream. For a year they occupied the entire community, creating their command in a dwelling on the Bavarian territory side, embellishing it with a portrait of Stalin and a Soviet emblem. The Americans persuaded them to pull back across the stream. For a while, villagers could continue to cross over, though as restrictions tightened they were obliged to present ID, even though each person was aware who they were, and to return at after dark.
Subsequently, in 1952, came wire fencing and the formal shutting of the boundary. In 1966, as in Berlin half a decade before, a barrier was constructed, with mines, tank traps and observation points. The residents could continue to observe each other by climbing slopes, but on the Soviet side signaling and yelling were banned. A female resident was put on a East German secret police watch list for answering “same to you” to a West German local who wished her “happy new year”.
I was told narratives including these by Robert Lebegern, the head of the institution, who has spent much of his working life building it. Locals were asked at an early stage about how what length of structure they wanted to preserve. They opted for a portion on the west edge, close to where a local resident managed to escape in the middle of the night with a scaling tool, after which the border was heavily strengthened.
2 watchtowers are conserved in addition to a set of displays showing the most impactful moments in the community’s past. As we walk, Lebergen enumerates the rules: nobody could approach 5km of the frontier. Agricultural workers had to obtain special permission to look after their produce; the partner could operate the harvesting machine but never both, in case they tried to escape. Military personnel stood watch.
The border between West Germany and the East Germany extended 1,400km, from the Baltic Sea in the northern part to this location in the southern region. Berlin is commemorated and documented the most, but over two times more people (exceeding 300) were killed trying to pass over it in countryside regions than in the metropolis. the director reminds me that almost all of attempts to flee did not succeed.
Most of Mödlareuth’s locals were rural laborers or skilled workers, who accommodated to residing in the uncertain territory between 2 ideological spheres by avoiding attention and tending to their fields. They neither supported the East German authorities nor fought it, Lebegern explains.
For sightseers, however, the hamlet became a type of pilgrimage. Roughly fifteen thousand came to see every year, viewing tools in hand, to stare – and then rapidly depart. In 1983, the US president, George Bush, was shown around by the national security head.
Twenty five years after unification, the TV show, a broadcast production about a fictional village resembling Mödlareuth, caused new interest.
The launch of the recently established museum – with a cafe, shop, film screening area and sizable parking lot – is expected to
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